Should i have my cards graded




















Authenticity can also be a concern for vintage cards, and getting them graded will establish that they are not counterfeit or altered. This certification number could help identify your card if it were to ever be stolen, which can be especially valuable for vintage or otherwise unnumbered cards.

If you want to make quick cash, forgo grading and sell your cards raw. As the trading card industry boomed amidst the pandemic, turnaround times at most major grading companies became much slower than expected and are still in flux today.

Grading in bulk or using more premium grading services comes with substantial upfront costs, never mind the opportunity cost associated with sending the cards away. Beyond the grading fees themselves, you must consider all of the costs of getting the cards to the grading company in the first place.

Unless you have the opportunity to drop the cards of for grading in-person, this will include supplies, postage, and insurance for your shipment. A card which might seem to be a Perfect 10 to the untrained eye could still have flaws, resulting in disappointment when it comes back with a less than mint grade.

That all depends on the grade. You want to familiarize yourself with the entire process so you understand the cost and time for grading, plus the possible premium at different grades and what condition your cards are actually in.

Will PSA take a look even though their speciality seems to be sports? Should I contact a different company to grade these types of cards? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance! It would boil down to how they classify the card so that would be something to clarify specifically with PSA.

For example, PSA will not grade items that bear evidence of trimming N1 , restoration N2 , recoloration N3 , questionable authenticity N4 , altered stock N5 or cleaning N7. PSA will also not grade items that do not meet the minimum size requirement N6 , were miscut by the manufacturer N8 , or items we do not grade due to being an obscure issue or not fitting in our holders N9.

Items that receive N6, N8 or N9 results will not be charged grading. What happens if I pay for the card thinking it is a 9 and it comes out to a 10? A: If PSA determines, in its sole discretion and at any point in the process, that the submitted Declared Value has been understated relative to the market value of the item, PSA reserves the right to decline your stated Declared Value. If you refuse, or are unable, to pay PSA for the accurate Service Level, then PSA will return the item to you unprocessed at your cost, and you will be charged for the Service Level at which you submitted the item.

What may have been a 6 or 7 10 years ago is now a 4 or 5 with PSA? Never seen anything like this. Anyone familiar? Ultimately, value is based on the market. Many things go into it: the player, the condition, the rarity, the set, the demand, prior sales values. Name required. Mail will not be published required. Share Pin Beautiful card! World Series Champion! Stay up to date on all the latest sports card and memorabilia news, articles, and products by subscribing to our newsletter below: Email address: Privacy guaranteed.

Your information will not be shared or sold under any circumstances. He is an avid collector with over 20 years of active experience in the hobby. User Comments I have a question about a tops Johnny Antonelli that I have a graded copy of a 9. Hello Trey, I have baseball cards and each of them are in good shape do you grade cards?

You would need to reach out to the companies mentioned for grading. If I had a card of questionable authenticity, it was really up to me to try and figure out whether it was real or not. If I had a card that looked really nice, I had to estimate a value based on condition and then get someone else to believe that value was the correct figure.

There are population reports , so I can see the exact number of cards that have been graded to help estimate the overall population of a card. There are certificate numbers in which I can go online to verify if a card in question has actually been graded or not. The condition scales have provided a level of consistency and transparency in pricing that makes it so much easier to transact with others.

I no longer have to guess the condition of a card, when a grading company has already done the work for me. And the fact that a graded card is encased and preserved in a holder that is consistent through whatever grading company you are dealing with makes it that much more attractive for collectors. This goes a long way in helping drive prices higher in a hobby that used to be besieged with counterfeit cards. The obvious answer as to WHY is that as noted above, getting a card graded will immediately add value to the card.

Very consistent in sales price, they offer an excellent example of how grading can be a losing proposition if you're not paying attention, are unsure of condition, or do not respect and fully understand the process.

Below are three examples of SP Jeters. You might be better off spending a few dollars on the lottery. Understand the marketplace and be realistic with your expectations. Ask questions. Understand the answers. And just because you have a card that looks like that card doesn't mean that you have a card that may be worth anything close to that asking price.

They may not look particularly different, but the values between them are significant to say the least. The PSA 8. When reviewing eBay, closed sales those are the ones that have ended and have GREEN numbers - not closed auctions that DIDN'T sell are usually the best way to determine the potential value of your card s or collection.

Being able to match the condition or to extrapolate a valuation parameter will also help you reach a more accurate assessment of the value. But be certain that you are comparing apples to apples. If you really want to know the values of graded cards, there are many resources.



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